Somewhere in the middle of Istanbul a portly,
wily, smiling middle-aged man holds court over his Turkish carpet emporium. Surrounded by priceless masterpieces, he offers you --
somewhat diffidently you think -- thick Turkish coffee in a neat demi-tasse.
With the air and excitement of a man
passionately in love with his trade, he exhorts his customers to come in, sit
down, rest awhile, and "feast your eyes upon these magnificent
carpets".
He assures you that you don't have to buy. .
. . just look, and learn. Before
too long you find yourself immersed in the business, bargaining back and forth
with him. Roll after roll of carpets appear before you.
The pile grows with sumptuous examples of Hereke and Kayseri silk
carpets, Bergama pure wool, or nomadic carpets from Eastern Anatolia.
And then, almost in no time at all, you are ready to leave with a
neatly packed parcel tucked under your arm.
You shake hands, exchange smiles. . . both parties are happy.
*
* *
Istanbul holds a fascination for me.
It is the only city in the world located on two continents, Europe and
Asia. The Golden Horn divides the
European city into two parts: the
old Imperial town of Stamboul and the port of Galata, with its modern
residential district on the hills above.
My visits to Istanbul typically start with a
stop in a coffeehouse close to the Galata Bridge.
A few years ago it would have been one of these establishments on the
lower level of the Bridge, but much of it was destroyed by fire.
I have since been told that efforts are being made to restore and
reopen these delightful places.
From the Bridge I can see many of the City's
monuments that are reminiscent of its Imperial past.
Among these are the gardens and pavilions of the Topkapi Sarayi
(the Great Palace of the Sultans: now a museum with a superb collection of
porcelain, armour, and jewels). Take
a guided tour of the Harem with its labyrinth of passages, courtyards
and very small rooms (at least 300 of them).
Only some of these rooms are open to the public, but the tour is worth
the small entry fee.
To the right of the Topkapi is the Church of Hagia
Sophia, easily spotted with its four distinctive minarets.
Built originally as a church in the Fifth Century, it served as the
Cathedral of Constantinople for nearly 1,000 years. After the Turkish Conquest, it was converted to a mosque and
carried the name of Aya Sofya Camii.
In more recent times it has became a museum.
Then there is the incredible Blue Mosque. It contains over 200 highly coloured stained glass windows,
painted arabesques in the domes. The lower portions of its interior walls are
covered with Iznik tiles. These
fantastic tiles were hand-painted with traditional floral designs of Lily,
Carnation and Tulip motifs. The
floors are covered with colourful carpets.
Next over is the Nuruosmaniye Mosque
with its attractive courtyard shaded with large chestnut trees.
It is a wonderful place to rest during a busy day of sightseeing.
The courtyard is situated by one the main entrance gates to the Covered
Bazaar.
This is a walking city.
Its narrow, winding, busy streets are filled with the clamour and
commotion of the sidewalk vendors, the honking of cars and trucks, the horns
from the boats on the Bosphorus, and the periodic calls to prayer. The nostrils are assailed with a mixture of smells of spices,
roasted meats, dust and the mustiness of old buildings.
There is the added overpowering smell of burning coal during the cold
months.
Browse through the Spice Bazaar with its
sacks of colourful spices, birds in cages, and sponge sellers.
Continue through the Covered Bazaar with its thousands of shops.
The Bazaar is like a small town with its own restaurants, cafes,
fountains and mosques. You can
find almost anything here, but you must be prepared to bargain hard.
After shopping, take a break and visit one of
the many Turkish Baths which have been restored and are once again open to the
public. It can be a very
invigorating experience.
One other experience I have enjoyed many
times, is the ferry ride up the Bosphorus.
This famous waterway follows the natural contours of the land, and is
dotted with harbours, villages and wooded hills.
You sail by palaces, mosques, and luxurious summer residences.
You can disembark anywhere along the route.
Sariyer, for example, is a fishing village, and makes an
interesting stop. Watch the
fishermen as they unload their catch. Then
spend an evening in one of several fine fish restaurants, many of which have
been run by the same family for generations.
Rest after a busy day under a white flowering chestnut tree or the
mauve blooms of a wisteria vine, sipping local white wine while you wait for
your dinner to be prepared, and watch the sun slip below the hills.
At the end of my visit to Istanbul, I stop in
the Kum Kapi District, lying along the Marmara shore.
The colourful heart of this village is the square with its gentle
fountain and excellent restaurants. People
who live and work in Istanbul come to enjoy a evening, and to be serenaded by
strolling Gypsy musicians.
A visit to Istanbul is not just the museums,
mosques and galleries. Its real
uniqueness is its people. . . their friendliness, hospitality, and welcoming
manners. I have traveled many times to this incredible and fascinating
city, and am always ready to return. On
every visit I see changes taking place, not always for the better, but I know
that Istanbul will always be there for me.
