I remember the first time I went to Mexico
City. I was traveling with my
family, and we arrived right in the middle of a huge political demonstration
on the eve of a Presidential election. The mood of the people was upbeat, and
the demonstration was so big it took over the vast square in the city's heart,
the Zocalo.
Through all of this we managed to find our
hotel. The Majestic Hotel is a
7-story colonial building with bright, warm coloured Puebla tiles throughout
the lobby, hallways, and lining the stairwells.
Welcoming us was a small stone, gently tinkling fountain in the lobby.
This place was an oasis of calm and civility in the midst of the
excitement outside.
The hotel fronts on the Zocalo, the
huge, open square whose size easily rivals Red Square in Moscow, or TienAnMen
in Beijing. "Zocalo" is
the name given to the central square in almost every community, large or
small, throughout Mexico. In other years, the one in Mexico City more closely resembled
its smaller counterparts, with its beautifully laid-out gardens, flower beds
and pathways. Sadly, all that has
given way to a flat expanse of concrete, centered on the flagpole where
Mexico's flag proudly flies every day. Yet
the eradication of the natural beauty is somewhat softened by the artistic
beauty of the buildings which border its four sides.
The Palacio Nacional is a magnificent
building, and is the official residence of the President of Mexico, as well as
containing many Government offices. One
enters the building through the main gate, passing the Presidential Guards on
the way. Visitors can climb a wide flight of steps to the second floor
to view, up close, the famous Diego Rivera murals, which collectively depict
Mexico's rich history. Also in
the Palace, is a small museum displaying many objects associated with Benito
Juarez, a former President, and one of Mexico's national heroes.
On the north side of the Zocalo is the
National Cathedral, one of the largest churches in the World.
This church has a beautiful ornate façade, and inside are marble
altars, priceless tapestries and paintings, and a huge organ.
But if you stand outside, well back from the building, and look
carefully, it is possible to see how -- over a very long time -- the Church is
slowly sinking into the ancient mud which used to be the huge volcanic lake on
which the Aztecs built the first settlement that today is Mexico City.
Strolling up Madero Street, we passed many
interesting and beautiful buildings. One of these is the Iturbide Palace, a lovely building which
was built as the Imperial residence of Emperor Augustine. Today, behind its intricately carved facade, are the offices
of the Banco Nacional. The
guard on the door offers visitors to come in and look around. Farther up the street is The Church of San Francisco, built
with stones from the Great Pyramid near the Zocalo.
Across the street is the House of Tiles. The whole exterior of this building is covered in blue and
white tiles from the nearby town of Puebla.
Avenida Madero, to give it its proper name,
eventually leads to Alameda Park, a favourite stop on our walking itinerary.
This comfortable public park has many mature trees and lovely
fountains. It is a wonderful
place to sit and watch people go by. There
are balloon sellers, carrying huge handfuls of fully blown-up balloons
floating just over his head. One
would almost expect him to fly away at any moment.
The balloon sellers would blow soap bubbles, and children would dance
around him trying hard to catch them. It
was great fun just to watch them. There
were also peanut vendors, their carts laden with nuts, and laughing children
clamouring to pet the monkey.
Mexico City, with its spectacular lighting
displays, is very exciting after dark. It
has fabulous restaurants, some of them where you can dance during dinner.
There are night clubs with terrific floor shows, bars, theatres,
impromptu entertainments in the streets, and the ever-strolling mariachis.
Incidentally, the best place to see and hear
the mariachi bands is in Garibaldi Square, an easy walk from the Zocalo.
Here the bands congregate to practice, often four or five at a time,
and it's great fun to hear them competing at full volume with one another.
However, while listening to the bands, one should also pay attention to
the pick pockets who gravitate there as evening begins to fall.
The Zona Rosa is the mecca for all those
looking for the boutiques of the likes of Gucci.
It also contains most of the airline offices, has most of the city's
skyscrapers and the major, international hotels.
Getting about Mexico City is easy and
inexpensive. The subways are
clean and plentiful, as are the city's taxis.
There is also the "pesaro", a regular taxi shuttle service up
and down the length of the city's main street, Avenida Reforma.
The name derives from the one-peso fare they used to charge each
passenger in those long-ago days when the peso had more value.
One can easily make day trips out of Mexico
City to such destinations as Pueblo, Teotihuacan and Choluca.
The easiest way is by first-class, inexpensive, air conditioned busses.
My family and I enjoy Mexico City
tremendously. Our trips to other
parts of Mexico always start with this fascinating and invigorating city.
Through the years we have met the kindest, most gracious people.
Yet, we also have had some problems, like the time in Zinacantan in
Chiapas State, when we wanted to take some photographs and the people
objected. There was no trouble, but there was just enough ...
